Native hedging is a strong starting point. Hawthorn and holly, for example, provide dense shelter and nesting sites through spring and summer, then carry berries into autumn and winter when other food is scarce. Nectar-rich perennials planted alongside give pollinators a working food source through the growing season rather than a single short burst.

Whole peanuts should be avoided if fledglings are likely to be fed them directly, as they present a choking risk; a mesh feeder that breaks nuts into smaller pieces is the safer option. Hygiene is just as important as food choice: cleaning feeders regularly and moving their position from time to time helps reduce the build-up of bacteria that can spread between visiting birds.

Design details matter more than they might appear to. Good insect houses combine hollow stems, such as bamboo or reed, with drilled wood blocks offering a range of hole diameters, roughly 2 to 10mm, since different species use different sized cavities. Natural, untreated materials are preferable to anything varnished or chemically treated.

For gardens without much bare soil to spare, a ready-made shelter is a simple addition. Many gardeners start with bee hotels positioned in a sheltered, sunny spot close to nectar-rich planting.

Building a planting scheme with Garden Wildlife UK in mind alongside the usual food and shelter provisions rounds out the picture. A well-stocked feeding station, including a reliable source of bumblebee food, complements planting choices particularly well during gaps in flowering.

Application is simple but does depend on getting the conditions right. Nematodes are typically mixed with water and applied with a watering can or hose-end feeder directly onto moist soil, since they need moisture to move through it and reach their target. Soil temperature also matters: most products need the soil to be above a minimum threshold, often around 5°C, to remain effective.