Before choosing a machine, it's worth checking what your workshop's consumer unit and incoming supply can actually handle, not just what socket is nearest the bench. Buying a three-phase-only machine for a single-phase workshop, or underestimating the load a higher-output single-phase welder places on existing wiring, are both avoidable problems with a bit of checking upfront.

Space and power supply are the other two practical constraints worth checking early. Confirming that a chosen machine will run comfortably from the electrical supply actually available in the workshop, and that there's room to work safely around it with materials laid out, avoids the common mistake of buying a machine that then can't be used the way it was intended.

A gas lens sits in place of the standard collet body and uses a fine mesh to straighten the shielding gas flow into a smoother, more laminar stream around the arc. This generally allows a longer stick-out from the cup without turbulence pulling in surrounding air, which is particularly useful when working in tighter joints or awkward positions where the torch needs to sit further back from the work.

Buying a first welder is easy to overthink. Rather than starting from a shortlist of machines, it helps to start from the work: what materials, what thickness, and how much of it will be done indoors versus outside or on-site. That single question narrows the choice between MIG, TIG and MMA far more usefully than comparing spec sheets in isolation, whether you end up looking at a Jasic entry-level MIG package or something further up the range.

The figure changes with output. Turn the amperage down and the duty cycle climbs, because the internal components are working less hard. This is why a welder can feel completely different in a busy production environment compared with occasional home workshop use: someone welding helmets and PPE continuously through a shift needs a much higher duty cycle at their working amperage than someone doing short repair jobs a few times a week. It's the kind of spec worth comparing properly across brands such as Kemppi and EWM, not just reading off the headline amperage figure.

Cutting capacity is usually described in terms of clean cut and maximum cut thickness, and the two are worth distinguishing. Clean cut is the thickness a machine handles with a good edge finish and reasonable speed, while maximum cut is the thickest material the machine will get through at all, usually slower and with a rougher edge. Buying with your typical material thickness in mind, rather than the thickest job you might occasionally face, generally gives a better day-to-day result.